Tuesday, September 04, 2012

Caen Gone

After another night in our Maison Rustique we were aiming for the 9.38 bus to Caen. We missed it, so after another breakfast of fresh croissants, we drove towards Caen instead. We negotiated the park & ride tram system and arrived right outside le Caen Chateau (a proper castle).
The castle was built in 1060 and was where the dukes of Normandy (and therefore kings of England) liked to hang out. Here we apologise that Guillaume is spelt like that and not Guilliame. There's not much left of it - some reconstructed ramparts that we could walk round, and a wall built by the English during the 100 years war as they distrusted the French (no idea why).
Then we walked to two of the Abbeys in Caen - first Abbaye aux Dames - Abbey of ladies (b&w photo). This is where Mathilde, Queen of William the Conqueror- nee Bastardo is buried and was built as a pay off to the church to allow William & Mathilde to marry (they were cousins & this wasn't allowed).
Then we walked through the Centre Ville of Caen to Abbaye aux Homme - Abbey of Men. It was shut for lunch, as is so much of France, if indeed things open at all. We wandered back through town in search of lunch. Since the rest of Caen were enjoying their 1.5 hour lunch time (assuming they don't only work afternoons) there were queues, but we found a boulangerie - le Petit Choux Normande - on the Rue San Pierre for a baguette/hot dog & the finest petit pain au chocolate ever tasted.
We wandered back to Abbaye aux Hommes (now open after lunch, colour pic) and found - ta da- the tomb of William the Conqueror! We overheard the guide telling an American family that they'd excavated the tomb & found a single femur which had been tested & found to be of a date & build consistent with William. Don't know where the rest of him is though.
There wasn't much more in Caen - surprisingly disappointing place if we're honest. The French aren't big on tourism and the place is lacking a decent one stop shop for the Norman invasions. So we headed back via the Radar Museum at Douvres - reduced rate with our Normandie Pass and, as we seem to find in most places, we had the place to ourselves!
This was part of the German Atlantic Wall defences. We got to go into two bunkers to see how the Germans used them & learn about the history of radar. Totally geek heaven.
We also got to climb into a radar dish - the Wurzburg Riese radar. This had been part of the German radar system but after the war was the first French radio telescope! Cool! Apparantly there's also one at Duxford but we don't remember seeing it.
Then Victoria had her first taste of French driving and drove us back to the holiday park where we are now relaxing in the bar with ice creams and disco/europop before dinner.

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