Weardale wander

After a good nights sleep, we decided to wander the other way from our cottage towards Cowshill. So, fuelled by a breakfast of coffee, squash and a bacon sandwich, we set off in the glorious sunshine.

All was going well until we reached the Killhope Burn at Lanehead. Here the path completely disappeared beneath moss and overgrowth that was even taller than Victoria! All this just to avoid one farm! After 10minutes of searching in vain, we decided to cut our losses and walk up the bank to the main road and bypass the problem area.

Eventually we recovered the path by the burn and continued on our way towards Cowshill. Here we passed a large reservoir formed out of an old quarry: it really looked like something out of a Hollywood film set. Leaving Cowshill we were greeted by the sound (but unfortunately not sight) of a waterfall: it wasn't possible to see it from the path as the trees were too thick and the bank just too steep.

The Weardale Way broadened out at this point, passing through pasture land rather than moorland. In no time at all we arrive at Wearhead, where the Killhope and Burnhope Burns converge to form the Wear. Passing through the small village (complete with shop) we continued through farmland and wooded riverbanks towards Ireshopeburn. Here we decided to turn around, but not before visiting the Weardale museum. This coincidentally opened as we arrived, and was worth the £3 admission fee. Inside Andrew learnt all about the numerous railways located within the valley, while Victoria was intrigued by the story of the Bainbridge family.

Eventually we decided to head back, but rather than head along the river, we decided to go upland. Things went pretty well navigating back towards Wearhead, although it was a bit frustrating to find that all paths converged here. So we made the most of it and had a mid-walk ice cream. Resuming our walk, we headed up hill towards Moss Moor; this is where things got a little sticky. Trying to navigate using the fencelines, and at the same time trying to find a route that didn't mean losing Victoria in the overgrowth, Andrew missed the turning for the path and we ended up fitting our way up hill through 2 additional fields, one complete with a dead sheep. Needless to say, we were relieved to get up to the top of the fenceline and be able to make our way towards the cottage.



Just as a note, it's called Moos Moor for a reason: it's a good job we did this walk in the dry as the moss and peat would have been horrendous in the wet.

We finally got back, a good days walking with some good points (weather, scenery) and bad (dodgy navigation, dead sheep). It's clouded over again so no star gazing tonight, instead it's Iron Man 2 and Thor as the mighty Marvel marathon continues!

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Location:Cowshill, Wearhead & Ireshopeburn

From trains to chariots

After last night's stargazing ended at 2am, it was unsurprising that we didn't surface until mid morning. Despite contemplating a full English brunch, we settled on bacon sandwiches and planned a sedate day (well, half day as it was nearly midday).

The outcome was a trip to Alston, mainly to get some toothpaste, but also because, well, we'd not been there before. Setting off in the car past Killhope and Nenthead, we arrived at Alston and found some free parking. This by coincidence was beside the South Tynedale Railway; great for Andrew, not so much for Victoria. We decided that we'd get the shopping and then go for a trip on the train. The shopping was slightly harder to come by than we thought seeing as Tuesday appears to be half day closing in Alston. Nonetheless, we got all we needed (as well as some other bits & bobs) and after depositing said items in the car, boarded the train for the 1415 departure.

The trip up the South Tyne valley was spectacular, with clear blue skies and bright sunshine lighting up the river, fields and moorland. Being the only people in the carriage made it a really enjoyable trip - yes, even Victoria enjoyed it!



On returning to Alston, we headed back up to the village for tea & a scone (with gorgeous sour cherry jam) and then hit the road home. This road however lead home via Hadrian's Wall, namely Housesteads roman fort. This was the first time either of us had been here with cloudless skies, let alone with the sun shining! Despite having only an hour to look around, we clambered round the ruins and saw the same hypocausts that we had seen on our previous visit 10years ago. We also saw the other holiday cottage we'd been considering, however I think that we chose the right one in the end!



The drive home was stunning in the early evening sunshine. We came back through Allendale, another valley with lead mining ancestry, and on reaching Cowshill we decided to have a quick peek to see what was there. The answer: not a lot, so we quickly made our way down to Wearhead where we found there was a small shop (in fact, this is the nearest shop to us, but I doubt we'd have found our toothpaste there).



So this evening we've had a lovely tea of bread, cheese & pâté, some blackberry wine (made drinkable through the addition of 7Up) and watched The Incredible Hulk (not the greatest of the Marvel genre, but still ok). No star gazing planned for tonight, but we'll see what happens tomorrow night.


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Location:Alston, Housesteads and Lanehead

Going underground

Well, we managed to get some sleep despite the howling wind last night. Although Victoria was a bit concerned at how dark it was, and the fact that whenever the wind blew, the bedroom door creaked! Nonetheless, it was great to wake up naturally this morning, and to discover the predicted rain had failed to materialise.

Over breakfast (banana, coffee/tea & a toasted muffin with jam) we decided to walk up to Killhope Lead Mining museum. So with walking boots on and map in hand we set off for the 2.5mile walk up the valley.

Along the way we saw grouse, rabbits, something worryingly resembling dried rats and numerous (shy) sheep. In next to no time we had crossed track, burn, coppice and moorside to reach the Weardale forest and the drop into Killhope. Here we were surprised to see how much the Weardale forest had been cut back on both sides of the valley; we're not sure if it's managed decline or something rather more serious.

We arrived at Killhope in time for lunch, and after a bowl of homemade leek & potato soup, we wandered round the site, visiting the mine shop, offices and - my favourite- the jigger house and water wheel. In next to no time, it was time to get kitted out for our trip into the mine. Armed with wellies (essential to negotiate the 3-4inch deep water flowing out of the mine), hard hat and miners lamp (which barely worked), we ventured into the hillside.



Our guide wasn't great, in fact we thought he was a bit abrupt and didn't really explain too much. However it was fantastic underground. Over minutes, we wandered through old workings, experienced just how dark it was with only a candle to see by (and also without), and encountered an underground water wheel. On emerging mole-like into the sunlight, we decided to head around the woodland walk, the highlight of which was when 2 deer bolted out of the gloom.


With the time nearing 4pm, we decided to head back home by retracing our steps along the Weardale way. We were slightly concerned by the ominous dark clouds gathering over the hills, and with a slightly quicker pace, made it back to the cottage only to find no rain was forthcoming (as Andrew had predicted).


So what have we done since then? We've begun the Marvel Avengers box set, with Captain America & Iron Man, and spent a wonderful hour outside doing some stargazing. The darkness here meant that we could see all of the Pleiodes, clearly saw the Milky Way and saw numerous shooting stars and satellites. With a stiff southerly wind blowing however, we've now come inside to warm up.


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Location:Kilhope, Weardale

Ahh! Tranquility!

After travelling up to Sunderland on Friday night, and a day of anguish for Andrew (football purgatory in Harrogate) and delight for Victoria (a day of cuddles and fun with Elliot), the day arrived for us to head up into the hills to our holiday cottage.

First however, we were off to church for Ryan's christening. This gave an opportunity for Victoria to catch up with some of her friends from home, and despite some struggles with hymns during the service, we made it through to the reception at the Stadium of Light. As an unexpected bonus, after lunch, we were all allowed to head down to the changing rooms, player's tunnel and out into the stadium itself at pitch level. We're not too sure who was more excited: the children or the adults. This was a nice touch, as it meant those who had travelled up from Nottingham got to see what a proper football stadium looks like! It was also nice to see Ryan give his first press conference to a packed audience.




We then realised it was mid-afternoon, and we could really do with setting off to find our cottage. So after a quick pit stop to change, load the car and check maps, we set off on our journey - our advice: go west (life is peaceful there)!

We headed through Durham, Crook, Stanhope and Wolsingham, climbing into the hills and voyaging further up into Weardale. Eventually we reached Lanehead and slowing to a crawl, managed to identify the right telegraph pole that signified our turning. This lead us onto a farm track, which dipped into the valley and rose steeply (very steeply) on the other side. Lets just say that upon reaching the apex of the summit, you really hope no one is coming the other way!

Finally we reached the farmhouse next door to our cottage. Victoria having waked the last portion of the journey having dealing with the gate, no mean feat in the "strong breeze" that was blowing. Having met up with Lynn (cottage owner) and being shown around, we set about unpacking and making ourselves at home. This was undoubtably helped by some homemade scones, butter and jam very kindly left for us by Lynn.



Right now, we are sat very contentedly in the (upstairs) lounge, listening to the wind howling outside and contemplating whether to have any more of the wonderful bread, cheese & pâté. Despite there being a telescope, it's unlikely we'll get any stargazing done tonight as it's a bit cloudy, but it looks very promising for later in the week.

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Location:A689,,United Kingdom