Kiss goodbye to Vienna

It's our last day in Vienna, and after checking out of the hotel this morning we've come by underground and tram to the Schloß Belvedere. This is the permenant home of Gustav Klimt's "The Kiss" together with some more of his works. Victoria hot this view of the gardens from inside



We've been round the galleries and seen the paintings and are now sat in the gardens. The Schloß is beautiful and with the sun in just the right place we've taken some pictures:




Now all that remains to be done is head back into town for some lunch (before our travelcards expire) and then prepare for the flight home later this evening.
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Location:Prinz Eugen Straße,Vienna,Austria

A little night music and politics

What a last night in Vienna! After a day at the conference and catching up with folk there, Victoria met up with the lone ranger and we headed back to Stephensplatz (the centre). It was still hot -been about 22 deg today and no rain- it was a shame to not take advantage of it so we walked back to the hotel rather than take the underground. 15 minutes Andrew said it would take.....that's 15 minutes on Planet Andrew.

Anyway it turns out our street (Mariahilfestraße) is a bit like Oxford Street with miles of shops. Great! The hotel is just at the cheap end. When we got back we went to the restaurant beside the hotel (the Mariahilfebrun) and had the best meal so far in Austria: Andrew had garlic soup for starter (yes it was smelly), then pork fillets with sauerkraut & dumpling and Victoria had beef soup with Austrian croutons (balls of bread) then goulash with potatoes (potato goulash with some sausage). We were stuffed, but the bill was miniscule! The beer was huge!


We then headed back to the Schönbrunn Palace Orangery for our Mozart & Strauss concert. Disappointingly, the Radesky March wasn't on the programme so Victoria was a bit gutted. But the Orangery is one of the only places where it is known that Mozart definitely played, so it was authentic.


In the first act the orchestra played Mozart and Haydn and included pieces from the magic flute, don giovanni and the marriage of figaro. Andrew likes opera so this suited him but even Victoria the opera-hater enjoyed some of this! There were two dancers who appeared to have seen better days, but if you closed your eyes it was ok. Second act was Strauss so a mix of waltzes and polkas. If Mozart is Michael Jackson, Strauss is definitely Pete Waterman-churning out loads of toe tapping tunes. It finished with the Blue Danube-what else-which was lovely to hear here in Vienna. But wait! Is this an encore? Yes - the Radezky March. Smiles all round and Victoria managed to resist the urge to get up and do her ballet number from the show! Brilliant!!

We've headed back to the hotel for the election coverage and have bought some crisps and chocolate to see us through CNNs coverage. Polls have just closed so we're expecting the Sunderland South result any second!

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(very) Blue Danube

No travel blog to Vienna would be complete without the obligatory photo of the Danube. So, here it is....



Off now to pick Victoria up from the conference. Hope this glorious weather holds for another day!


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Location:Donauinsel, Wien

Vienna solo

Well, Victoria is doing her EGU talk today so I'm "flying solo" until this evening. So far, I've taken a tram round the Inner Stadt (old town) and had a wander round the streets. Ironically today is the best day weather wise, the early morning storm has cleared to leave blus skies and bright sunshine.
Right now I'm having a coffee at the Keinen cafe on Kärtnerstraße before heading off to check about tickets back to the airport tomorrow.
I'm also finding the 'extra' characters on the iPhone - very useful for german words!


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Location:Keinen cafe, Kärtnerstraße, Wien

At home with the Habsburgs

Today was our first full day on Vienna. We started with the hotel breakfast buffet which kept us going most if the day and was worth the €10 each!

As we had a reasonably early start we headed on the underground to the Schonbrunn Palace and Gardens the former home of the Habsburg dynasty. It was originally intended to be bigger than Versaille but is just smaller. It was built by Maria-Theresia and painted her favourite colour yellow. In all honesty the Hermitage in St Peterburg was so much more impressive.


We took the "grand tour" around the 40 accessible rooms that cover the lives of Emperor Franz-Josef and Empress Elisabeth (Sisi), plus a previous generation of Maria-Thesesia and Franz-Stephan. We got an audio guide but after a while we came upon an English tour guide so stuck with him!

Turns out Empress Elizabeth's eldest was married off to King Louis XVI of France and was none other than Marie-Antoinette. With the number of Cafe Konditoreis (tea rooms) around Vienna no the wonder she was obsessed with cake!

Empress Elisabeth had a special bed made like a throne as she was permanently pregnant from the age of 19 to 39 and by law she wasn't allowed to get put of bed for the last 3months of each oregancy but still needed to meet and greet!!

We next headed it to the Privy Gardens:


Then we took a walk around the maze and labyrinth then up to the Gloriette which was built to commemorate something, but it was all in German.....We climbed to the top anyway.

We had used up our Classic Pass Light ticket which covered all this (and was good value for money and cheaper than nirmal cos of our Vienna card!). We headed towards the Danube in search if a boat trip, but were rather disappointed with what was on offer (and the price!) so headed back to the city centre. We had another sausage from Franz's Wurstel Stand just off the Karntnerstrasse - highly recommended.

We went to the Albertina art gallery, part of the Hofburg Palace complex. In here was an Andy Warhol display of his car pictures and on the top floor an excellent permanent exhibition of modern art: Monet, Cezanne, Durer, Renoir, Picasso, Miro (hoorah!), Braque and loads more. Well worth the entry fee.

Yet again it was pouring and we wandered aimlessly through Vienna's centre. Lo - a sweet shop called Dumel's. This wasn't any old sweet shop-this was a proper chocolatier. The assistants even had black & white uniforms.


By now we wanted so e dinner and found a restaurant called Diglas where Victoria had (mire) sausage and sauerkraut and Andy had Scnitzel. We finished it off with the best cake so far.

Victoria needs to run through her talk for the conference tomorrow so we've headed back to the hotel for the night. Tomorrow is going to be a busy day - not just at the conference but we've got tickets to hear a Mozart & Strauss recital at the Schonbrunn Palace Orangerie tomorrow night!

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Rock me Amadeus

Well, we've now arrived in Vienna and checked into our hotel. To say our room is big is an understatement; we must be staying in a spare ballroom as we only occupy a small portion of the total space (and that's with a reasonable amount of furniture). What's worse, there are no tea & coffee facilitites in the room!
After settling in, we headed on the U-bahn (underground) to the main square - St Stephens. Here we were not at all surprised to find the cathedral encased in scaffolding, it happens everywhere we go!
We walked in a loop down towards the imperial palace (Hoffburg) and then back up to St Stephens. On the way, Victoria got a couple of books (she's nearly finished Heidi) to keep her going. One of the books is about a family known as the von Trapp's (they sound familiar)....

We eventually made our way to Mozart's Viennese residence (just behind St Stephens). Here we not only learnt about 18th century Vienna, but also about how prolific Mozart was here. In fact, we also found out about his death! Sadly, it seems he worked himself to an early grave, although the copious drinking and gambling probably didn't help...

With the rain coming down, we decided to grab some dinner, eventually finding a small restaurant off KartnerStrasse. Here we both had a soup (really tasty) followed by beef goulash (served with a single, large dumpling). This too was really tasty and filling, leaving us with no room for dessert (despite the abundant temptations on offer).

We are now back at the hotel relaxing and planning our day tomorrow. We may head to the imperial palace (yep, more than 1 here) at Shonbrunn, and will also attempt to find Haydn's residence. Of course, our plans all depend on what the weather does....

Location:Mariahilferstrasse, Vienna, Austria

Auf Wiedersehn Salzburg

We're now on the train heading back to Vienna. It'll take about 3 hours but we've got a compartment to ourselves (like on old UK trains) with electric sockets, air con and 6 seats. Ample room for luggage. We're keeping an eye on the news with the new ash cloud but if anyone has news please text so we have a heads up.



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Location:Giselakai,Salzburg,Austria

Is Mozart dead?

Today we gave the Sound of Music a break (not entirely) and concentrated our efforts on Salzburg's classical music heritage. It was still raining first thing so museums were a good plan.

After a breakfast of last night's sandwiches (which we didn't eat as we zonked out again at 6.30!!!) and an apple pretzel, we headed into the old town. First stop was Mozart's birthplace.






It was very obvious that they were not poor. His father Leopold had written the "how to play violin in 3 easy lessons" of it's time and made a wad of dosh. On realising that his son Mozart and daughter Nannerl were pretty good at playing piano he touted them round to make another load of cash. Think of Michael Jackson being touted by his dad -same deal. Made him tour lots, raked in the cash to pay for houses, was annoyed when he went off on his own, ditched sister when it was clear a solo act was more plausible....etc etc.

We saw his original instruments, some of his letters and belongings including locks of his hair. There was no mention of his death though so we decided to use our combined cheapo ticket to go to his residence on the other side if the river near yesterdays do-re-mi Mirabell Gardens.

The residence was bought on the proceeds of Mozart being pimped around Europe. It was pretty big with a ballroom, and we learned more here about his life. After a 20 minute video there was still no mention of his death. We can only conclude that, like Elvis, he did not die.



Now the science bit. Right next door was the birthplace of Christian Doppler, which probably means nothing to you. He theorised about light and sound-the Doppler effect is when a fire engine siren sounds different as it goes away from you compared with it coming towards you. Space does the same thing with light so we know it's expanding blah blah.

We headed back into the old town to the Salzburg Museum to find it's closed on Mondays so we found a little cafe for lunch. We both had 3 sausages (diff types), sauerkraut and potatoes. Yumm. We finished it off by trying Sachertorte - poor man's black forest gâteau really. Andrew liked, Victoria didn't.

By now the Haydn museum was open so we headed there-only to find it was shut!! Boooooo. So we wandered round the old town a bit more and visited St Peter's cemetary where we had been told the scenes of the von Trapps hiding in the gravestones were filmed. Victoria is not so sure -it didn't look quite right:


We headed back to the hotel via the do-re-mi bridge from the movie-definitely legit:


We rested a while watching TV and reading; Victoria has finished Les Mis and highly recommends it!

We got a bit peckish so we strolled back into the town and bought a Kasekrainer sausage each from a street vendor. It came with a bun and more Ikea-style mustard. We ate it sat on the banks of the River Salzach and headed back.

Tomorrow we are going to head into Vienna on a mid-morning train. Salzburg is really lovely and we're glad we made the detour!

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A few of our favourite things

We have had a brilliant day today, mainly focusing on the Sound of Music. To recap. We were picked up from our hotel at 9am, so we ate the rest of our sweet pretzels for breakfast (but like Danish pastries). We both went to sleep at 6.30ish last night and didnt wake until the alarm at 7.15!! The hotel breakfast is €15 so we aren't trying that at all.

We were dropped at the coach pick up point where we met our Glasweigan driver (!). The Austrian tour guide joined us and we set off at 9.30. We had a massive coach but there was only 14 people!

The first stop was the Hellbrunn Palace, more specifically the gardens, where we saw the gazebo from "you are 16 going on 17". It wasn't originally here-it was at the Palace of Leopoldscron but they moved it to be a tourist attraction. It was locked though so we couldn't try it-it was much smaller than imagined! See photo from Andrew's post this morning.

We were shown a long tree-lined walkway which was where the children played in the trees in their curtain clothes and Maria sang "I have confidence". We weren't able to go, but at the end of this walkway and visible from the road was the house used as the front of the von Trapp house.

The next stop was the Palace of Leopoldscron which wax used for the rear of the von Trapp house in the movie. Only the gardens and lake were used, the actual house wasn't and the rear of the other house was used instead. So on the shot of Maria and the Captain talking, Maria is at the other house with a building as backdrop and the Captain at the Palace of Leopoldscron with the lake backdrop. You can't go in the Palace today as it is owned by Harvard university. This is why the gazebo was moved!

The real von Trapp family (not the Hollywood ones) lived elsewhere closer to Salzburg, but again you can't go in their house as it used by Himmler and then sold to the catholic church.

We then went on a drive through the mountains to a place called Mondsee. This was a pretty lakeside village which was the site of the church where Maria and the Captain married. Andrew posted a pic earlier. We wandered to the lakeside where Andrew had a hotdog and Victoria a brunwurst-another spicy sausage with Ikea-style mustard.

We headed back to Salzburg and drove passed the Nonnberg nunnery - the one used both in the film & real life. The bus dropped us at the Mirabell Gardens where they filmed do-re-mi. It was very very pretty and Victoria played on the steps (see earlier photo).

Now, the tour was over and the sun was blazing, so we decided to head up to the fortress which us the furthest point if the old town, ie a long walk. On the way we had desert of an Apple Strudel (andrew) and braunkapfel (sweet bread bun warned & covered in icing sugar-victoria).

We elected to take the fernicular railway up to the fortress (good move) and got a combined ticket to see everything. This meant we could get a free audio guide when wanderng. Not a good move-it was very boring- but it did mean we got excellent views of Salzburg from the top of the ramparts. After a wander around the state apartments and a boring collection of army uniforms we walked back down the VERY steep cliff path towards town. Halfway we say a sign for the Nonnberg nunnery so we detoured and saw the gate where the children came to beg Maria to return and where the Nazis came to search. Cool.

We were knackered by now so decided to head back. Most restaurants (including the hotel one) are shut on Sundays so we've bought sandwiches and pringles for tea and are chilling in our room now. Like yesterday, come 5pm the sun went in and rain started, but we didn't get as wet as yesterday. Looks like a storm brewing. Erm yes-right as I type the mist torrential rain just started. And thunder & lightning. Cool!

Tomorrow we're going to do a few museums and have a classical music day.

If someone can tell us the final score from today's game that would be great.

Whoa really really really heavy rain!!!!! The telly has gone off!!! V loud thunder!! Good move with the hotel picnic decision. Auf Wiedersehen!



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Location:Hotel room in a thunder storm

Do-re-mi

In the Mirabel Gardens at the end of the tour. Is this Victoria or Maria on the steps?




Now taking a wander round Salzburg and possibly going up the hill to the fortress


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Location:Bernhard-Paumargartner-Weg,Salzburg,Austria

Sound of music tour (3)

The Mondsee (Moon Lake) church used for the wedding in TSOM.




We've wandered down to the lake itself (5min from the village) for a borewurst and hotdog. Now back to the bus for the trip back to Salzburg. Weather is perfect, not too hot and not too bright.
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Sound of music tour (2)

Leopold palace. Used as outside (rear) of von Trapp house. Fortress visible on hill in background.




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Location:König Ludwig Straße,Salzburg,Austria

On the sound of music tour (1)

On our sound of music tour by the gazebo.




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Location:Hellbrunner Allee,Salzburg,Austria

Stiegal, wurst & pretzels

So we arrived in Salzburg at about 2pm after a smooth train ride from Vienna. The views was fabulous. We managed to get on an earlier train than planned so once we'd walked to the hotel we still had a full afternoon to look around.

Neither if us has had any substantial sleep since Thursday, but the sun was shining and we didn't want to waste the time we have.

We're about 15 mins walk from the centre of Salzburg, but it seems very safe and very clean!! We headed into the centre and familiarised ourselves with where things were. We found the tourist information office and after some deliberation (about 5 seconds) we booked onto a Sound of Music tour for first thing tomorrow. We get collected from our hotel first thing then taken to all the sites. VERY EXCITED!!

We're also going to get a Salzburg card that gives us free entry & transport for 48 hours to other places such as the fortress on the hill.

Salzburg is Mozart crazy. However the Haydn museum is only €2 and Victoria prefers Haydn.

We found a restaurant for tea in the centre. Andrew had bernewestl (saugages with bacon & cheese) with chips; Vuctoria had rotbratwerstl (sausages) with saurkraut and potatoes. Both were delicious, but as we were eating, the clouds descended and it got very very dark. We paid and made our way back to the hotel stopping to buy some sweet pretzels for desert. This was a good move because as we walked back a thunder storm emerged. A bit bedraggled we made it back to the hotel var for a beer.


We're tucking into the beer (stiegel is the local beer) and pretzels in our room as we're going to flake out very soon ready for tomorrow's excitement!

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Location:Bayerhamerstraße,Salzburg,Austria

Wilkommen aus Vienna

We've landed at Vienna and 10 minutes after disembarkation, we are on the shuttle bus to Westbahnhof (for the train to Salzburg). Weather is fine and it's nice to have terra firma underfoot.flight was ok if a little bit bumpy, fairly quiet (most people slept) and Andrew decided against the breakfast pannini (cheese & mushroom). Landing was perfect, even Victoria approved!
On the book front, Victoria is halfway through "Les Mis" which reminds her of "A tale of 2 cities". At this rate we will run out of books!

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Location:7. Haidequerstraße,Vienna,Austria

Departure lounge

So we checked in pretty close to 4am-most check on was via the machines so not entirely sure what's the point of the check-in girls. Andy had got a bit of sleep in the terminal but victoria started reading Les Miserables and was gripped!

Then we headed to security where we waited over 30 mins for them to open. Fantastic. Then all the palarver of coats off, belts off, laptops out of bags.

An hour after check in we're finally in the departure lounge where most things are closed. Excellent. We think we get breakfast on the plane though. Boarding starts in 20 mins. So that wasn't a lot of time to get any sleep on the comfort chairs.

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The Terminal

It's 2.10am and we're sat in the Heathrow Terminal 1 abyss. Everything is closed, and there's an automatic door on overdrive so we keep getting an icy blast. Not that we can complain-we got to the car parking and found the first bus transfer was not until 4am, so we were going to have to sit in he car for two and a half hours. So much for on demand 24 hours a day! Luckily for us, another couple arrived who bizarrely had to get to Heathrow by 2am to catch a bus to Gatwick. Amazingly 2 blokes & a transfer bus turned up and brought us in. There are about 15 other people in the terminal-mostly sleeping, plus a vacuum cleaner tuck operator. There's nowhere for a drink or food either.

We don't know how Tom Hanks managed it. Bored already.


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Location:Inner Ring W,Hillingdon,United Kingdom